We, first off:
Never assume that resin covered screws mean that the camera was never opened.
Commonly it would be yes, but this had one tell tail sign. Flip scratch on the automatic sync-speed arm that are caused when the arm is allowed to travel beyond the point of the stopper on the hot-shoe. A light scratch sure, but heavy is the mark of someone struggling with the arm to return it to the correct position before closing the top deck.
Next is silly stuff happens:
A simple loose cocking arm and that pushed the shutter terminal too far and I did discover sooner as well the plate to the lens mount seemed loose and that is how the lens stays mounted in the correct position when extended not to mention it means some shots may be out of focus. I missed that entire section of the camera. I had concentrated on only the circuit board and the timing capacitors. When I was putting Don's suggestion into action the moving around must has loosened it further. Bending back the contact and tightening screws solved it.
Drop damaged:
One viewfinder element out of the three was chipped and in the direction of a shock drop. Chips were small and uniformed in size and angle.
Never break my own rule about lubing:
Yes, I got lazy and dripped in the lube without regard. I would usually pin point deliver. So, due to the action of the main switch that gives power to the circuit and the shutter, when you fire it off, has a quick snap back and the extra oil gets splashed into the viewfinder area. Brilliant move... now I needed to take apart the viewfinder and meter to clean that all up... 40 minutes later and I'm done.
So, all has been repaired and the camera is now running well... for now?
I sifted the "bin of camera to be fixed" and found the Minox GL from a few years ago with fried shutter solenoids and plucked the NR filter off the meter side. It looks to be a .6! On it goes and the shutter still seems wrong... as in Sunny 16 rule is not right nor it following the lightmeter readings on hand-held or TTL Pentax.
...More tests.
Never assume that resin covered screws mean that the camera was never opened.
Commonly it would be yes, but this had one tell tail sign. Flip scratch on the automatic sync-speed arm that are caused when the arm is allowed to travel beyond the point of the stopper on the hot-shoe. A light scratch sure, but heavy is the mark of someone struggling with the arm to return it to the correct position before closing the top deck.
Next is silly stuff happens:
A simple loose cocking arm and that pushed the shutter terminal too far and I did discover sooner as well the plate to the lens mount seemed loose and that is how the lens stays mounted in the correct position when extended not to mention it means some shots may be out of focus. I missed that entire section of the camera. I had concentrated on only the circuit board and the timing capacitors. When I was putting Don's suggestion into action the moving around must has loosened it further. Bending back the contact and tightening screws solved it.
Drop damaged:
One viewfinder element out of the three was chipped and in the direction of a shock drop. Chips were small and uniformed in size and angle.
Never break my own rule about lubing:
Yes, I got lazy and dripped in the lube without regard. I would usually pin point deliver. So, due to the action of the main switch that gives power to the circuit and the shutter, when you fire it off, has a quick snap back and the extra oil gets splashed into the viewfinder area. Brilliant move... now I needed to take apart the viewfinder and meter to clean that all up... 40 minutes later and I'm done.
So, all has been repaired and the camera is now running well... for now?
I sifted the "bin of camera to be fixed" and found the Minox GL from a few years ago with fried shutter solenoids and plucked the NR filter off the meter side. It looks to be a .6! On it goes and the shutter still seems wrong... as in Sunny 16 rule is not right nor it following the lightmeter readings on hand-held or TTL Pentax.
...More tests.
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