Warning! If you are not fully familiar with the DIY repair of any camera, don't jump in without some research and maybe practice on a less advanced camera.
I am fully aware that I'm risking my camera by doing this, but it is my camera. I have over four years of tinkering inside cameras of all sorts and am fool-hardy enough to attempt this task. Please familiarize yourself with the next three installments before starting. Any damage caused by your tinkering is a risk you must be willing to take and not send me weird angry anonymous e-mail about... you know who you are... as I am not responsible for your camera. Do download the LX service manual that are available on the net and read through the published steps. I will try to follow them, but will make necessary short cuts to some steps as needed.
1. Spin the cap off by going clockwise to remove. Yes, it is backward from normal and there are no notches, so friction help is needed. I've had success using a surgical glove for extra grip. I've spotted a few cameras on "the bay" with holes drilled in the covers... don't do it! It may be a good way to let moisture in and corrode things in the future.
2. Four screws out... consider a good set of drivers. I like the Wiha sets as they seem very close to JIS standard drivers or just get JIS as they are not too expensive and consider all metal set instead of the plastic handled set I purchased.
3. Retention ring is a round pin type spanner and also in clockwise direction to remove. Consider gently removing dirt before removing the ring. This will reduce the crud that falls inside later.
4. The rubber grip around the speed dial. Gently pry out an edge. I slipped my driver tip and rotated around to gently peel up the adhesive underneath the grip. Don't go too fast or you will tear it or snap it since the cement has a very tight grip on it. I had to slip the driver tip out periodically to clear it as the cement had built up and started to gum up the rotation.
5. Speed dial has to come off by way of three screws and they are easier to access when the dial is turned to 1/2000th... as the service manual also directs.
6. Finally two screws. One at the top between the dial and the prism mount and the other next to the prism mount and film door. The removal may not be very easy if the weather seal is still in place. Take care in removing as it may warp or bend. It may be necessary to carefully cut or score the seal first. The best spot will be along the finder track and down the rear. Also, set aside the ring washer that was under the dial. Use an easy to control blade and 'choke-up' on the blade to limit the depth. I rest the side of the blade to my finger leaving a small tip of the blade exposed and guide slowly along the seal trench.
The re-attachment of the winding lever at this time will make testing easier for now.
This is it and the other side is next.
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